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Old 06-12-2008, 06:02 PM   #1
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Short of ordering/or making a custom stainless steel fitting, is there an accepted way to mount a bow roller to a classic sailboat with an elevated toe-rail around the bow? I don't wish to cut it down to mount it flush. I am considering building an elevated platform to secure to the deck and then secure it to that. Last week we had an anchor get caught on "something" during a storm. We had anchored in a leeward cove in order to reef easier and when we tried to weigh anchor it was REALLY hooked and of course I had rigged no trip line! I had to do a little (luckily very little) teak work when we finally got the very bent Danforth style anchor broke free. In short: It is time for a strong Bow Roller!

David

S/V Friendship
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Old 06-12-2008, 11:24 PM   #2
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Hi David

Do you have a couple of close-ups of the bow - top and side view ?

Richard
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Old 06-13-2008, 01:27 AM   #3
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m_IMG_1066.jpg

Richard,

I hope these are large enough to give you the idea.

David
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Old 06-13-2008, 02:51 AM   #4
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Here is another photo Richard:m_Friendshipstarboardbow.jpg
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Old 06-13-2008, 04:31 AM   #5
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Hi David,

I have seen other Pearson 32.5 Vanguards with yokes extending out from the bow to hold an anchor roller. Really need to see close-ups from the top and the side to see how to clear the Fair leads.

I have done a similar mod. on my Nantucket Island - used S/S boiler tube from a railway steam engine. In your case thinking simple : 2" wide x 3/8th" flat bar to form the yoke.

Richard
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Old 06-16-2008, 05:42 PM   #6
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David,

I too have the exact same issue with my Bristol 32. Raised toerail with no real way to attach a Bowroller.

I did some reasearch and will be making my own.

Try this website of a guy who built his own for an Alberg 30 (I believe it is very similar to your boat).

http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/disorg...ller/JoeTokarz/

Photo and plans available on the above site.

Quick photo of the finished product below.

Good luck.

Bajamas
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Old 06-17-2008, 04:38 AM   #7
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On boats with a bulwark or toerail, I've seen pretty bronze rollers set up on a bloc on deck directly inboard of the fairlead (don't really think this is a good plan, though). I've also seen similar rollers set right into the "notch" where the fairlead usually is (this is not as pretty but makes much more sense). Our Rawson 30 didn't have a bow roller (though it had a bowsprit, so could have easily had one there) but simply had the chain running from the anchor windlass out through the oval hawse in the bulwark. It worked fine, but we did have to manually unhook the anchor from its resting spot and drop it overboard.

SIDE NOTE: Now, if you're actually willing to lengthen your boat with a frame out there for a bow roller, why not make it worth your while to pay the extra slip length fee and consider adding a bowsprit (convert to a cutter rig?) which would be quite "traditional". Of course, you'd have to either work with a rigger or crunch the numbers yourself to figure out the requisite stay configuration to have both a headsail and staysail. This is likely to impact your aft set of stays and maybe your backstay. It would be a good excuse to add running-backs, of course which are always a good "safety" net for a cruiser to have even if they're not used...The Rawson 30 original design was w/o a bowsprit but many were modified and later produced with them. Ours was a sloop, not a cutter, but had a bowsprit. To make it a cutter, the previous owner would have had to modify the stays and I guess he didn't wish to do so. If you make this mod, then you can have yourself a "self-tending" staysail in addition to your headsail. Just a thought. oh, my I'm digressing...

back to the main question of bow rollers...

Also, since your boat is "traditional" you might consider what is (I think) called a "cats-head" which is a pivoting arm with a bow roller at the end. It is usually used on boats with plumb bow (or for multiple anchors) and typically attached to the foredeck and when deployed it stuck out to the side over the bulwark (or in your case, toe rail); it must fairlead back to your windlass, of course. Quite "shippy" looking all in all. Our cruising boat has a plumb bow and has her anchor roller(s) on both sides of the 10' bowsprit. The anchors are deployed several feet away from the boat. With a system like ours, sometimes a "cats head" is still used to store the anchor rather than leave it secured to the bowsprit or bringing it back on deck from the sprit. Some people use a cats head (on power boats) right out there on the front of the boat since it can be flipped back onto deck. I can't say that I've seen a traditional sailboat with it used that way, though.

Nic Compton's "Great Classic Yacht Revival" has a lot of great photographs of classic (i.e. old and wooden) boats, mostly racing, but with enough detail that you can see rigging and deck hardware on many of the boats. I've found it very instructive since we are re-rigging our boat in a traditional manner and trying not to screw it up. There's a pic on page 130 of a cats-head being used to store an anchor off the side of the boat (in that case, the anchor leads out through a hawse forward of the cats-head and I can only surmise that there is another roller out on the sprit for use and they're just storing the anchor on the cats-head.

Good luck to you!
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Old 06-17-2008, 06:22 AM   #8
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Hi. This whole anchoring thing is problematic and the problems intensify with the wind strength. I'm working on a solution, which involves a variable weight anchor. The idea is that it becomes heavier as it sinks to say 20 metres. However, upon retrieval, it sheds weight and at deck level only weighs say one kilogram. I've started with a literature review of medieval books on alchemy and will go from there. Once I've sorted this one I will report progress to this Forum and then move on to a variable length dinghy, which is say one metre on deck, but becomes say thre metres upon contact with water. After that, I'll get into cold fusion. Regards.....Tel
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Old 06-17-2008, 07:42 AM   #9
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Anchoring can be very problemactic. However, the problem in discussion is how/where to fit a bow roller on a Pearson 32.5 Vanguard so #1 that it can be fitted without significant structural modifications #2 that it does not spoil the classic lines of this boat #3. that it works as designed.

Red,

I like your thoughts on building a proper bowsprit - taking a forestay to the end of the sprit and fitting a bobstay. The idea of 'cutterizing' will have to take in the Vanguard's underwater profile, if has a full long footed keel or a 3/4 keel then COE balance should not be affected.

If David brings some close-ups, we may be able to produce a design that meets his objectives.

Richard
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:30 PM   #10
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Richard, The photos will have to wait until I get back to the boat "again", I got caught up in a boat deal and now have "another" boat to sell so I didn't get to do anything to Friendship while at the marina and I won't get back to her for another three days. I'll try to attach a photo of the keel for future information.

Red, I don't think I want to make a cutter (though I love them) out of this boat and a bowsprit is something else for me to break. I had never heard of a cat's head and the idea is appealling. I can angle a modern roller out to one side slightly as long as I angle the windlass to match and not need a cat's head arrangement. I have to look at the damaged teak from not having one as I made myself the deal that I wouldn't repair the teak until a roller was installed!

m_IMG_1241.jpg
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Old 06-25-2008, 12:39 AM   #11
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Thanks everyone,

I have all of the hardware for the new anchor roller in-hand. After I get it installed next week I'll post some photos.

David
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