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Old 03-24-2011, 05:26 PM   #1
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I plan to paint or apply new gel coat to my boat this summer. I have painted using two part paint before with mixed results, I've never tried to shoot gel coat. My boat has enough bad spots I can't just do spot gel coat repairs. I am leaning toward paint at this time, probally Awlgrip. Any other types of paints I should consider? From what I have read gel coat shoots on like paint? The boat is original gelcoat right now so I'm pretty open to suggestions... Thanks!

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Old 03-24-2011, 05:58 PM   #2
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I plan to paint or apply new gel coat to my boat this summer. I have painted using two part paint before with mixed results, I've never tried to shoot gel coat. My boat has enough bad spots I can't just do spot gel coat repairs. I am leaning toward paint at this time, probally Awlgrip. Any other types of paints I should consider? From what I have read gel coat shoots on like paint? The boat is original gelcoat right now so I'm pretty open to suggestions... Thanks!

Waywardsuun
While we were rebuilding our boat, for more than two years, watched a professional painter fellow in the boatyard do boat after boat after boat with new paint. One boat, a huge 60 foot sport fisher, had major repairs and add-ons and he did use gel coat because of all that work. However, in the end, after the gel coat, he painted even that boat. So, I don't know all the reasoning (having a wood boat...), but it seems that paint is probably the way to go.

Two-part linear polyurethane (LP) paints give the most durable protection. Here in So. Cal, the Proline brand is readily available and used. Interlux is available and a good brand as well.
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Old 03-25-2011, 06:05 PM   #3
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applying gel coat is mostly done to repair spots. That means sanding down the spot all the way to the bare fibre glass and then applying the new gel coat. This is quite a time consuming job and at the end the colour doesn't mach with the rest *.*

This is something that can't be done by yourself to the entire boat and if a shipyard offers such a technique, it must be much more expensive than sanding down the old gel coat, applying filler to the spots, sanding them down and applying a paint coat like mentioned: a two component system, that is sun resistant and maintenance free for the next years (not even polishing is needed!) And if you drop a shakle, you can repair the dent yourself easily.

The general question arises: Why do fibreglass boats have a gel coat surface anyway? Even under the waterline! There the gel coat goes anyway as soon as shipyards apply a professional osmosis protection!

So, initially the gel coat is the first layer and therefore very easy, fast and cheap to apply with splendid results. *But ist does not work as well the other way around: Applying it as the last layer does not at all *end with the same result and is much harder to apply.

Painting (even two component systems) is much easier.

Uwe

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Old 03-31-2011, 11:17 PM   #4
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I have used lots of paint including Awlgrip but the paint I like the best is Devoe 379. It is easy to spray and does not run easily. It can be sanded and buffed out if needed and will last 10 to 12 years. You can't go wrong with Devoe.

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Old 04-04-2011, 01:45 PM   #5
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The Shearwater is painted with Brightsides - a 1-part that goes on easy, looks OK, but has poor adhesion between the primer and finish coat and needs repainting after 2 years. I don't recommend it.
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:44 AM   #6
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I second the recommendation for Devoe 379, it's essentially the same as the Altex 379. It's a two pack polyurethane, ideal as a top coat, easy to get on, good coverage and it looks fine even brushed on. Under it I'd use a two pack epoxy system like the Altex 2000. I wouldn't recommend using any single part paint on any part of any boat of any kind, anywhere, ever.
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Old 04-13-2011, 09:14 PM   #7
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Paint. I've used Interlux Brightside with good luck (as opposed to another user listed above). We sanded and prepped the boat very well and had good conditions, so possibly that is why our experience was different. The two part paints are of course stronger (Interlux Perfection, Awegrip, etc.).
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:08 AM   #8
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Has anyone used PPG Concept (a 2 part acrylic urethane) topside? We have several areas that we had gelcoat cracks. We used a Dremel tool to remove the cracked gelcoat. Then used an epoxy filler. Everything is nicely sanded and ready to paint now.

We happen to have several different colors of white PPG Concept paint left over from painting some airplanes. We are very familiar with this paint (used on aluminum!) and know that it's extremely durable in that application.

We also know that the color match won't be exact, but we can mask off and paint whole areas that will make it look OK. (we will also probably add some "flattening agent" to help it match the boat!)

Question is, has anyone used this product on fiberglass with success?
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:30 AM   #9
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Has anyone used PPG Concept (a 2 part acrylic urethane) topside? We have several areas that we had gelcoat cracks. We used a Dremel tool to remove the cracked gelcoat. Then used an epoxy filler. Everything is nicely sanded and ready to paint now.

We happen to have several different colors of white PPG Concept paint left over from painting some airplanes. We are very familiar with this paint (used on aluminum!) and know that it's extremely durable in that application.

We also know that the color match won't be exact, but we can mask off and paint whole areas that will make it look OK. (we will also probably add some "flattening agent" to help it match the boat!)

Question is, has anyone used this product on fiberglass with success?
Gooday Karen. I read much diabolic conflicting information in the replys to your very valid question. Be very careful of much of the information given. If you wish to check-out my 'profile' you may care for me to answer your questions. Polyester gel-coat is a very poor way to go & NOT easy to paint to a high quality finish. Polyester gel-coat is used in a mold & fiberglass is layed-up onto it; Ployester flow-coat is what is used to paint the outside surface of a finished fibreglas reinforced plastic laminate product. PPG is without doubt one of the worlds leading companies is all their fields of manufacture. There are a few 'little' tricks to get the best results possible. Yes I have sprayed a few yachts, aircraft & cars over a couple of years as it was part of my business activies. As the saying goes - do-drop-in' if I can be of any asistance. Capt-dinghy will soon be having the very same situation to tackle, if you read any of his 'posts'. Ciao for now, james aka 'jj-geri-hat-trick'
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:46 PM   #10
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Mr. Raven Sir,

You simply can't go with a leading statement that there are a "few little tricks" and then just leave me hanging by not telling me!!!

Please! Do tell!!!
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:50 PM   #11
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Our plan is not the cheapest - we will be prepping the boat (assuming that we will own it soon) and taking it to a shop to have it properly done with a 2 part paint.

I would probably have a different answer if SilverRaven lived nearby and I could have him watch my progress in person - or if he recommended someone of his caliber regarding such matters. I also may have a different answer 10-15 years hence if another coating is required and I am in a position to make that decision. But today, it will be part of our acquisition cost.
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Old 05-20-2011, 03:49 AM   #12
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Has anyone used PPG Concept (a 2 part acrylic urethane) topside? We have several areas that we had gelcoat cracks. We used a Dremel tool to remove the cracked gelcoat. Then used an epoxy filler. Everything is nicely sanded and ready to paint now.

We happen to have several different colors of white PPG Concept paint left over from painting some airplanes. We are very familiar with this paint (used on aluminum!) and know that it's extremely durable in that application.

We also know that the color match won't be exact, but we can mask off and paint whole areas that will make it look OK. (we will also probably add some "flattening agent" to help it match the boat!)

Question is, has anyone used this product on fiberglass with success?
Gooday Karen. IMHO - I would check with your PPG supplier to see if that 'aircraft' type has proper adhesion to 'fiberglas', extra high abrasion resistance (as in salt-water) over time. The 'acrylic urethane' should have a very high rating of 'U-V' stability as the additional refection off the water is very intense. You're "very familiar with this paint" so you'll know to 1/ mix thoroughly & let sit for a time while covered (to keep out any moisture in the air) in order to let the hardener start its action with the paint, remix & add thinner (if required) just before spraying, 2/ check with the PPG - paint tech - to make sure all the

different batches are compatitable & not to old. All 'urethanes' (both the paint side & the hardener) tend to absorb moisture - through the containers - over time, especially the hardener but you will know if it does because it will have gone hard in the tin. I personally don't use a 'tack-cloth' as they have - oil of sorts - in them & I feel they interfere with the adhesion of any paint systems. You already know - not to spray in a draft (or as little as possible) as that tends to make the paint - surface dry - to fast & promotes 'orange-peel'. Most of the time - I wait for 1/2 hr in 24 to 30* C, with less than 40% humidity (very hard to do here in the tropical North of Australia) & then apply a 'fog-coat' (consisting of 40 to 60% thinners added to the 'urethane') very lightly, from a meter (3') away from the job & never any closer - which I do quite quickly (as in the spray-gun is travelling quickly & smoothly c/w the nozzle always at 90* to the job. After about 1/2 hr or so - the whole job will 'gloss-up' & look just like 'glass' (no pun intended). A tad tricky but when it 'glosses' it's just like magic & very rewarding. End result - job looks & is supurb times 100%. Suggest you do a trial & do it carefully. Another 1/2 later I take all the masking paper & tape off carefully - reverse peeling it - so as not to get any 'whiskers' of paint 'candying' on to the rest of the job. Due to our temp, humidity & intense sun - I neveer paint in the sunshine nor let the job get to much to soon after painting. All said IMHO !!!

Hope this is of some little assistance.

I do apologise to everyone for such a long-winded rambling diatribe however I don't know how to summarise 50 years of painting advise into less words. SORRY y'all.

JeanneP - this is a prime example of why I think some of these discussions should take place - off-board & not in these open forums. IMHO Also I'm now feeling - very vunerable - & quite embarrassed. Again my humble apologies to everybody. Ciao, james
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Old 05-20-2011, 04:00 AM   #13
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Mr. Raven Sir,

You simply can't go with a leading statement that there are a "few little tricks" and then just leave me hanging by not telling me!!!

Please! Do tell!!!
Kevin, I don't know anybody by that name !! Further more - "You simply can't" etc etc. Seems to me you've missed something here, as in - I just did !! - exactly that !!



Oh & while we're at it. Would you please confine your comments, questions & observations in these 'forums' to relevant subjects. The 'boat' to 'Titan' is as relevant as dog do-do, & assists no one in furthering their knowledge & ability to more safely 'Cruise & Sail' the world (earth). IMHO & I thank-you, jj
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Old 05-20-2011, 04:21 AM   #14
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I plan to paint or apply new gel coat to my boat this summer. I have painted using two part paint before with mixed results, I've never tried to shoot gel coat. My boat has enough bad spots I can't just do spot gel coat repairs. I am leaning toward paint at this time, probally Awlgrip. Any other types of paints I should consider? From what I have read gel coat shoots on like paint? The boat is original gelcoat right now so I'm pretty open to suggestions... Thanks!

Waywardsuun


Gooday bloke. What size 'Hans Christian' do you have? There a 'fab' yacht. Very sea-worthy !!I'm pleased you - ask before doing - it may well save you some grief & cost. I've said - far to much - in here - for my liking. If you wish to read my 'profile' & check-out my comments to Karen - feel free to get back to me. All comments are given on a IMHO basis & although professional are not financially driven in any way. Recommend you do not use 'gel-coat' as it's the wrong material & in the worng application. Read what 'Uwe' SY Aquaria, cause he's got it right. Brenda's comments are very worthy of much attention as well. By the by - 'gel-coat' does not 'shoot-on' like paint no matter how good you are. Even 'flow-coat' when used - the best it can be - is still just a filler-undercoat to a top grade 'urethane'. Oh & it (gel-coat) stays sticky forever on the surface exposed to the air. Ciao, 'jj-geri-hat-trick'
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