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Old 06-11-2009, 06:34 AM   #1
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Greetings;

We have a 1983 Vagabond 47 and are about to re caulk the decking. Any information would be nice. We had toyed with the idea of removing the teak but our vessel is in the NW and the wood is still great.

Regards From the Elizabeth Jane.

Sinclair
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Old 06-11-2009, 09:45 AM   #2
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Greetings,

27 years - teak laid decks - re caulking - there are some questions :-

Has the Teak shrunk so that the caulking is not compressed against the teak ? Or has the Caulking hardened and come away from the teak ?

The teak itself - is this still nice and flat without hills and valleys due to scrubbing which removes the softer wood ? What condition are the teak plugs - are they standing proud of their surrounds?

If one takes a rubber hammer (or something like that) and systematically grids the deck, sounding for dull soggy areas - what results?

The re-caulking phase of the operation is relatively easy !!! The worst part is removing the old caulking - have done it with an angle grinder with a Kamakazi blade wide enough to fit the gap and set not to cut deeper than the height of the teak whilst at the same time not cutting into the underlying supporting timber.

Once All the old caulking is finally out, then if using a caulking product like Sikaflex 290DC, a primer is first used before caulking - once caulking is complete and allowed to cure for a couple of days, a sander can be used to bring everything to the same level.

Richard
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Old 06-12-2009, 02:59 PM   #3
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Greetings,

27 years - teak laid decks - re caulking - there are some questions :-

Has the Teak shrunk so that the caulking is not compressed against the teak ? Or has the Caulking hardened and come away from the teak ?

The teak itself - is this still nice and flat without hills and valleys due to scrubbing which removes the softer wood ? What condition are the teak plugs - are they standing proud of their surrounds?

If one takes a rubber hammer (or something like that) and systematically grids the deck, sounding for dull soggy areas - what results?

The re-caulking phase of the operation is relatively easy !!! The worst part is removing the old caulking - have done it with an angle grinder with a Kamakazi blade wide enough to fit the gap and set not to cut deeper than the height of the teak whilst at the same time not cutting into the underlying supporting timber.

Once All the old caulking is finally out, then if using a caulking product like Sikaflex 290DC, a primer is first used before caulking - once caulking is complete and allowed to cure for a couple of days, a sander can be used to bring everything to the same level.

Richard
Thanks Richard;

I have a bit of both hardening and shrinking of the caulking. The teak is smooth and had cetol all over it which we have been slowly removing. The plugs are all present and flush with the teak.

After my morning coffee I will get my rubber hammer out and start waking the crew and...."sounding my deck"

Cheers Sinclair
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Old 07-07-2009, 02:54 PM   #4
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Hi

This is my first post and you may already have started the job but here are a few points from my recent re-caulking operation.

I invested in a Fein Multimaster with a special deck tool fitting. This made removing the old caulking much, much easier. For stubborn mastic I just used a sharp chisel to remove.

I then used a Bosch Palm Router (brilliant) with a 6mm straight blade to rout out to the new 6mm depth. You may need to make a simple jig to keep the router on course.

Make sure you use the appropriate primer before you add mastic and also use Bond Breaker tape for the bottom of the rebate. Although your width should be about 6mm you may find that putting in 4mm tape is a lot easier.

Decide on caulking material. Polysulphide is rubbery and cheap but the penalty is a slow cure of several weeks (no walking on deck). Silicone is a NO, NO. Others are Polyurethanes like Sikaflex 290DC (expensive) or an MS Polymer such as SABA which cures in 24 hours and is sandable soon after. I went for SABA but very soon realised that I could have used a 30% cheaper construction sealant.

The steadiness of your hand will determine whether you want to mask either side of each seam. I would also consider buying an electric caulking gun if you are into that sort of thing.

To remove worn away deck plugs I used a 10mm Forstner bit to break the 'seal' then chipped away with a chisel until I reached the screw. After screws removed I used same Forstner bit to drill deeper into teak by about 3mm. I then used a bradawl to poke a pilot hole and re-inserted screw. New plug popped in after being dipped in a little varnish. As there was rarely much above the surface I trimmed off with an orbital sander.

When mastic is fully cured it can be flushed off using a sharp chisel or sanding. I use a Veritas Flush Plane for the high bits and the orbital for the rest. You can then sand off the entire deck with a good quality random orbital sander. I use a DeWalt 600watt with

the added rotary feature.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
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Old 07-07-2009, 03:32 PM   #5
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Hi

This is my first post and you may already have started the job but here are a few points from my recent re-caulking operation.
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Old 07-08-2009, 01:31 AM   #6
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Chinita,

Thanks for the write-up, couple of questions :-

quote" MS Polymer such as SABA which cures in 24 hours and is sandable soon after. I went for SABA but very soon realised that I could have used a 30% cheaper construction sealant."

Which SABA product ?

Which Construction sealant ?

How would the above react to an oily wood eg Teak ?

Richard
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Old 07-08-2009, 08:56 AM   #7
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Chinita,

Thanks for the write-up, couple of questions :-

quote" MS Polymer such as SABA which cures in 24 hours and is sandable soon after. I went for SABA but very soon realised that I could have used a 30% cheaper construction sealant."

Which SABA product ?

Which Construction sealant ?

How would the above react to an oily wood eg Teak ?

Richard
Hi Richard

The SABA Product is SABA Seal One Fast. In UK you can get 600ml sausage for around 20.00. You also need to buy the bigger sausage gun.

The cheaper option is Tradeseal MS/HS available from www.thegluepeople.co.uk at 7.20 per 290ml tube. As far as I can see, this has exactly the same properties as Seal One Fast.

Certainly SABA is good for teak (as I have not tried the Tradeseal I could not comment except to say that I would be surprised if it was incompatible). There is also the question of whether to de-grease and prime. It is generally assumed necessary with 'new' teak and not on 'old' teak. As mine was 'oldish' I compromised and just used the SABA primer. Time will tell if I have made a mistake!

My main problem was, although the boat cost around 400,000 to build (46 ft steel cutter ketch) and was built by a highly regarded organisation, the deck was a bit of a bodge. Planking was plain (or flat) sawn, not quarter sawn which meant the erosion had left huge undulations. Fortunately the depth of timber was such that I could plane and sand it evenly. In addition I discovered that only one in five of the eroded teak plugs I removed actually had a screw underneath it! Fortunately the deck was thoroughly sealed to a ply sub-deck so it was no great structural problem but certainly highlighted the fact that you cannot always believe what you see.

My other boat is a 1963 Hong Kong built all teak Cheoy Lee Vertue - now, with her, there are NO shortcuts!

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:49 AM   #8
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Chinita,

Thanks for the additional input very useful for our databank.

Noted with great interest that the boat in question is a 46ft Steel Ketch - I have had the recent privilege of participating in the re-engining / modifying / a makeover of a 46ft steel Ketch designed by Henk Tingen and built by Kok Scheepswerf - Holland

Henk_Tingen_Ketch.jpg

Richard
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Old 07-08-2009, 02:12 PM   #9
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Chinita,

Thanks for the additional input very useful for our databank.

Noted with great interest that the boat in question is a 46ft Steel Ketch - I have had the recent privilege of participating in the re-engining / modifying / a makeover of a 46ft steel Ketch designed by Henk Tingen and built by Kok Scheepswerf - Holland

Attachment 996

Richard
Databank! Gulp!!!
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Old 07-08-2009, 02:30 PM   #10
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Chinita,

Thanks for the additional input very useful for our databank.

Noted with great interest that the boat in question is a 46ft Steel Ketch - I have had the recent privilege of participating in the re-engining / modifying / a makeover of a 46ft steel Ketch designed by Henk Tingen and built by Kok Scheepswerf - Holland

Attachment 996

Richard
Nice vessel. This is mine (before deck work)

http://s535.photobucket.com/albums/ee357/anthonymercer/callisto%20460/
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Old 07-09-2009, 03:46 PM   #11
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I second the use of the Fein Multimaster. They make three different sizes of tools designed to remove the caulk. I purchased all three because I had different widths, but you may get by with one. No other tool saves as much time and does such a good job.
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Old 01-14-2010, 02:18 AM   #12
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Could you post the part numbers or links, and expand on how for the Fein please?

Bosch palm sander, make jig, could you please expand on what you did or include photos for us who are already suffering early boatheimers and can't quite visualize what you did, please?

Robert & LInda, trying to save the knees we have left...

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I second the use of the Fein Multimaster. They make three different sizes of tools designed to remove the caulk. I purchased all three because I had different widths, but you may get by with one. No other tool saves as much time and does such a good job.
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