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Old 07-12-2010, 02:21 AM   #15
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sailmakers--National does have the Rolly Tasker "good deals" that people love.

For top notch cruising sails Carol Hasse of Port Townsend Sails can't be beat. She's got an impeccable reputation and her sails are known to last decades in heavy cruising service.

You might also look to Sailrite. Yes, the DIY sail people. They will make sails for you at good prices and they will also work with you so that you can do some of the work yourself--I know this because I spoke with them about building me a mainsail that I would then put traditional bolt rope and hand sewn eyelets onto. Nice folks and very competent.

What's wrong with what you've got? Are repairs needed? A good sailmaker could do broad seaming or other use/wear related repairs. You could also do quite a bit yourself. I just finished recutting and resewing the foot of our mainsail (an imposing task for me to undertake, btw) and the hardest part was the hand sewing on of the bolt rope! Amazing what you can do yourself once you set your mind to it. Now I'm looking at broad seaming one of our jibs. If that goes well, I may broad seam our staysail or remove the battens from it and do a "roachectomy" with guidance from the Sailmakers Apprentice.

G/L with your projects!
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Old 07-12-2010, 11:49 AM   #16
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J,

Sometime past we talked about 1 x 19 galvanized - have you reconsidered going back to that alternative. The number one problem with 304 is that it does not contain the protection of 3>>4% of molybdenum to protect it from deep pit corrosion out of the water.

Brion Toss is very approachable and extraordinarily honest :- WIRE

Richard
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Old 07-12-2010, 11:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMNETSEA' date='12 July 2010 - 04:43 AM View Post

J,

Sometime past we talked about 1 x 19 galvanized - have you reconsidered going back to that alternative. The number one problem with 304 is that it does not contain the protection of 3>>4% of molybdenum to protect it from deep pit corrosion out of the water.

Brion Toss is very approachable and extraordinarily honest :- WIRE

Richard
You know, I really wanted 1x19 galvanized for our rig! However, in the USA in 3/8" size, it is not available anywhere. I searched high and low for well over a year and spoke with many reputable riggers before I gave up and just bought 1x19 in 316 SS. 1x19 galvanized in 3/8" is available in the UK, however, at the time I looked into it, it would have cost approximately 2.5 times the cost of 316 SS for me to import it. Manufacturers will sell it in lots of 10,000 ft, although I did find one who would sell a 5000 ft length. Or, you have to import it. It may be possible to find smaller 1x19 galvanized wire, but I was only seeking out 3/8" diameter. It is definitely possible to find 1/2" and larger 1x19 galvanized and it is easy to find all sizes of 7x19 galvanized. Just not 3/8" 1x19 which is what I needed. Brion Toss, an excellent rigger, keeps his own supply for his own use for his own rigging projects. He is located in Port Townsend Washington. I did not have the impression that he would supply other people with rigging wire for their use--but he might.

If you choose to use galvanized wire, you will be advised by Toss and others to NOT use HiMod or other similar mechanical terminations made of SS, rather you would be advised to splice over thimbles (as I did on our SS 1x19 for the lower ends of the shrouds). You would also be advised to parcel and serve the galvanized rig to both prolong its life (it can outlast your lifetime) and to keep unsightly rust from ending up on your sails and decks.

GL
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Old 07-13-2010, 01:03 AM   #18
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J,

With Brenda's personal knowledge and real 'hands on' experience, we return to the problem of the difficulty in sourcing the appropriate wire at right price.

Forget about the expensive riggers including Brion Toss, and also for the time being the Marine suppliers - here is an excellent site that lists US Industrial suppliers of wire rope, both S/S and galvanized. Suggest sticking with 316 and StaLoc fittings which are easy to fit yourself.

INDUSTRIAL WIRE ROPE\

Richard
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Old 07-14-2010, 06:04 PM   #19
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I'm settled on 316SS at this point. Riggingonly.com has decent prices on wire and fittings... I will be using a norseman at the bottom of the forestay as that is what Hood specifies with the furling gear but hi-mod on the rest...

thanks again for all the input.
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Old 07-14-2010, 06:17 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atavist' date='14 July 2010 - 10:58 AM View Post

I'm settled on 316SS at this point. Riggingonly.com has decent prices on wire and fittings... I will be using a norseman at the bottom of the forestay as that is what Hood specifies with the furling gear but hi-mod on the rest...

thanks again for all the input.
If you wish to keep HiMod on all, you might be able to get clarification from Hood. That way, you wouldn't have to keep spare cones for both Norseman and HiMod.

It is funny how pricing changes--I really liked the folks at Riggingonly.com, but at the time I checked with them, their wire prices were way higher than most other places I could get 316 SS 3/8" size. They have excellent pricing on labor of hand splicing 1x19 wire, btw.

Good luck in your project!
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:54 AM   #21
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Atavist- have you re-rigged already?

A long time ago I put this article onto the internet, with permission from both GOB and the Author: DIY Rigging
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:21 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Seafarer View Post

Atavist- have you re-rigged already?

A long time ago I put this article onto the internet, with permission from both GOB and the Author: DIY Rigging
Seafarer,

Super article !

Instead of the very expensive wire cutter

(which may not be used too often) an angle grinder with a steel cutting wheel to cut the S/S 1/19 or 7/19 - then a finishing grinding wheel to round the edge of the 90 degree cut, this helps a lot with both Norseman a Sta-Lock.

And it is the easiest way to cut standing rigging,

remember to tape the wire at the place you wish to cut and then cut through both the tape and the wire.

grinders angle.jpg
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:48 PM   #23
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Seafarer,

Super article !

Instead of the very expensive wire cutter

(which may not be used too often) an angle grinder with a steel cutting wheel to cut the S/S 1/19 or 7/19 - then a finishing grinding wheel to round the edge of the 90 degree cut, this helps a lot with both Norseman a Sta-Lock.

And it is the easiest way to cut standing rigging,

remember to tape the wire at the place you wish to cut and then cut through both the tape and the wire.

Attachment 1630
Grinders are great, but somewhat dangerous to use. We happen to have a portable metal cutting bandsaw that we use for cutting the wire rope. Works a charm if you happen to have access to such. Tape it, as mentioned. We place the wire rope in a portable vise and cut along the face of the vice.
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Old 12-17-2010, 10:49 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbopeep View Post

Grinders are great, but somewhat dangerous to use. We happen to have a portable metal cutting bandsaw that we use for cutting the wire rope. Works a charm if you happen to have access to such. Tape it, as mentioned. We place the wire rope in a portable vise and cut along the face of the vice.
True the 4" angle-grinders are great and if improperly used or using poor quality cutting or grinding wheels can be dangerous. But all electrically powered tools can be dangerous for the same reason. The 2 grinders pictured have been in use, safely for 18 years (touch wood) Videos C L I C K
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