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Old 06-27-2009, 03:50 PM   #1
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I am in the market for a plow anchor and was wondering which of the designs were better.

CQR anchors have a hinged shank, while Delta anchors have a fixed shank.

While the hinge seems like a Good Idea, it does add complexity and possibly a weak / wear point.

Any comments?
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Old 06-27-2009, 09:58 PM   #2
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The CQR has been the choice as a primary anchor on sail boats for some 75 years, which must say something for the design :

CQR_ANCHOR.jpg

The hinge (blue arrow) allows a lateral swing of 75 degrees - it is this feature that gives it the advantage over the Delta, as many sail boats moored on an anchor tend to hunt in light winds (no sails up, the boat quietly tacks from side to side).

A genuine CQR has a reputation of being almost unbreakable, the hinge not considered a weakness.

In some anchor rollers the Delta fits better.
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Old 06-28-2009, 06:44 AM   #3
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Thank you. Would you consider a 45LB CQR to be enough for a 35', 15k lb Cutter? I have heard that "one pound per foot" is the rule of thumb for a working anchor, and also that plows need to be a bit heavier than other designs. I've also heard to go "a few sizes up" for a primary cruising anchor, which this will likely be. I was thinking that maybe a 60LB CQR would ease my worries while still being manageable by my Tigress windlass.

My "other" anchors are a Danforth that's been holding the boat through some summer storms lately since the rode broke on my claw. I'd like to replace the Danforth with a Fortress FX-37.

The 110LB Claw is just too massive for frequent use (I don't think my windlass would even budge it). I launch and retrieve it off the swim platform and try not to throw my back out in the process....
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Old 06-28-2009, 07:14 AM   #4
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The ground in which you are anchoring really determines the type of anchor to use. Certainly a 60lb CQR will provide more comfort than a 45lb, but, not much better holding, if properly set in heavy clay or thick heavy sand, the 45lb should do the job. Where one is anchoring in light coral sands a big Danforth or a Fortress will give better holding than a plough anchor.

Is this similar to your boat :-

CAL_35.jpg

How about testing your windlass with a combination of weights giving 60lb total ?
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Old 06-28-2009, 07:43 AM   #5
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That's extremely similar to what I've got Click the picture to go to the quick-and-dirty webpage I made for it.

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Old 06-28-2009, 09:05 AM   #6
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Hi,

Nice looking boat, which part of the US do you keep it ?

And do I see a large Danforth - does it need galvanising ? More to the point = how easy it to get chain and anchors regalvanised?

Last Question :- how did you do the trick of clicking on one picture and getting a gallery ????

Richard
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:12 AM   #7
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Richard,

I have the fortune of keeping the boat in the Tampa Bay area of FL. It is the part of the state well know for dodging hurricanes and having a plethora of places to hide during one.

All of my anchors need galvanizing, as well as my chain. Fortunately there is a large hot-dip galvanizing company in Tampa.

Click the image below to go to their website:



As for the image and gallery, the gallery is a simple webpage that I wrote, and I used UBB code to show the image and link it to the webpage.

Just like HTML is used to write webpages, UBB is used to do similar things on bulletin boards.
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Old 06-30-2009, 04:15 AM   #8
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I bought the 45# CQR today, however the bushings for the hinge are missing. Can these be bought and pressed in or will they have to be custom made (out of bronze, perhaps)?
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Old 06-30-2009, 05:29 AM   #9
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Is it a Genuine CQR - drop forged ??

Do you have a close up photo ?
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Old 07-01-2009, 03:33 PM   #10
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Yes, it is a genuine CQR, though it doesn't say "drop forged" on it. Just "45LB / CQR / Patent No. xxxxxxx" on the shank.

No, I don't have any pictures of it. My comp has developed a weird bug where it won't allow me to upload pictures into it. I'll need to use a comp at work to do it, or my g/f's laptop.
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Old 07-01-2009, 11:29 PM   #11
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Computers are not friendly! USB cable to different port? Use FastStone Image Viewer?

Back to CQR If the Pin is still tight in the Anchor section but very loose in the fork of the shank, then I GUESS that the bushes (bushing) have worn/dropped out. See if you can establish if the fork's holes are still circular - using a vernier. Options :- If the Holes are still a circle and if the anchor needs galvanizing, re-bush with mild steel bushes - then galvanize. If the anchor does not need galvanizing then re-bush with Phosphor Bronze (Tight fit in the fork - moving fit on pin).

If the holes in the fork are no longer circular - Then you may have to Hydraulically press out the pin from the anchor section, then drill new holes in the fork - And if the pin is also worn either rebuild or replace. Then re-bush the fork and reassemble.

Richard
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Old 07-03-2009, 12:28 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seafarer View Post
Yes, it is a genuine CQR, though it doesn't say "drop forged" on it. Just "45LB / CQR / Patent No. xxxxxxx" on the shank.
The patent number should read No: 1318946
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Old 07-10-2009, 12:11 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMNETSEA View Post
If the holes in the fork are no longer circular - Then you may have to Hydraulically press out the pin from the anchor section, then drill new holes in the fork - And if the pin is also worn either rebuild or replace. Then re-bush the fork and reassemble.

Richard
The hole in the shank is definitely oval. I measured 5/8ths of an inch of play on the upper hole, while the lower has a hard rubber sleeve affixed in it somehow. Also, the top of the pivot pin is much larger than the bottom, which is noticeably thicker where it comes out of the anchor than where it sticks out of the shank. I must have the worlds most worn-out CQR.

I figure I have two options:

1) Remove the shank and have the hole drilled back to circular, then press in a bronze bushing. Have the pin pressed out and a new one pressed in.

2) Sell it for a profit and keep my eyes out for a 60LB CQR that doesn't need machine work or galvanizing.

Also, my fancy Suncor anchor swivel/pivot doesn't fit over the shank. It's a near thing but still a no-go. Sure, I can just put a shackle between the two of them, but that sort of defeats the purpose of the hinged feature. This anchor would be on an all-chain rode, so the swivel has to be right by the anchor.



I do also have a bronze swivel that, while having the same size pins, has much larger "jaws" and would undoubtedly fit. It takes "custom" size pins, though: 3/8 x 1&1/8". Of course, it didn't come with any pins so these will have to be made by having longer pins cut down and new cotter-pin holes carefully drilled. I have the feeling it's not as strong as the SS Suncor swivel, but I suppose I'm still more likely to rip out the windlass than break a swivel? It has a familiar logo that I just can't place, a circle with a trident inside it- does that ring any bells?
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Old 07-10-2009, 01:44 AM   #14
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1) Remove the shank and have the hole drilled back to circular, then press in a bronze bushing. Have the pin pressed out and a new one pressed in.

The pin in the anchor has to be pressed out first - then the shank's fork holes be re-drilled - then the anchor replaced in the fork - then the pin pressed in - then the new bushes pressed in over the pin and in the fork.

2) Sell it for a profit and keep my eyes out for a 60LB CQR that doesn't need machine work or galvanizing.



That will cost !

Also, my fancy Suncor anchor swivel/pivot doesn't fit over the shank. It's a near thing but still a no-go. Sure, I can just put a shackle between the two of them, but that sort of defeats the purpose of the hinged feature. This anchor would be on an all-chain rode, so the swivel has to be right by the anchor.

The swivel does no more than take the twist out of the rode as the anchor is recovered. No reason not to insert a specialized anchor shackle between the shank and the swivel, see McMaster Carr - click HERE

good luck.
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