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Old 06-29-2005, 04:09 PM   #1
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Default ADVICE ON X 372 SPORT (X-YACHT)

i am having a few problems with the an X 372 Sport that i am looking after for a friend

1. i cannot seem to get a manual and X Yachts says that they have no record of one or that boats this old don't hvae manuals... anyone know where i can get one or a copy of one?

2. without a manual it is quite difficult to understand the plumbing and the wiring (two batteries charge in series; while only one is used for lights, etc to ensure that one is always powered up to start the engine)so if anyone has experience with wiring and plumbing on this boat then pls revert with contact details so i can address my more specific queries

3. how can i ascertain the correct type of anode for the propeller shaft? is any round zinc anode ok to use as long as it matches the shaft diameter?

4. is it ok to go up the mast when the boat is on the hard?

5. when the boat is on the hard should the keel be touching the base of the cradle or just a little bit above?

6. can anyone guide me through the correct procedure to replace the bolts on the chainplates for the shrouds? this boat has rod rigging so i am presuming there is a significantly higher chance of it breaking if the mast moves around too much while this job is being done

7. the boat has a harken roller furling mechanism and a twin track racing headfoil. The drum of the roller furler seems to slide up around 2 inches or so. Is this because it is loose or is it normal?

any help would be appreciated.

please have sympathy on a dinghy sailor for whom this kind of boat is a whole new ball game
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Old 06-29-2005, 06:48 PM   #2
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I hope a few others can add to the following.

1. I don't think any yacht has a manual. Plumbing and wiring would have changed anyway.

2. If you don't understand the wiring system, you need to find a competent electrician to help you. One battery is probably used exclusively to start the engine, and a second battery bank is used for house power, including lights. How the wiring is accomplished, however, is probably unique to that boat, as it is to most others. Same with the plumbing.

3. The anode (zinc) for the shaft will be appropriate if it has the same internal diameter and the shaft's diameter.

4. I wouldn't go up the mast while it's on the hard. That is going to place much to much stress on the hull at the contact points where it is in the cradle.

5. The keel should be the primary support point. the boat should rest on the keel and all other supports should be primarily to steady the boat. The keel is usually placed on a large piece (or pieces) of wood, perhaps 12" by 12". Although not a really good photo of Watermelon on the hard, this should help: http://www.fototime.com/A0518F87B6EABF6/standard.jpg

6. Chainplate bolts - if I were you I'd wait for the owners to return to supervise this.

7. I don't know anything about the roller furling mechanism, don't want to try to guess.
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