 |
|
03-23-2007, 11:46 AM
|
#1
|
Ensign
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 38
|
I am on a big learning curve and thought that I could learn plenty from others' experiences. This membership appears to be very helpful and happy to impart their knowledge and information for which I (and I'm sure many others) are very grateful to soak up.
So, let me pose a question to all members in the anticipation that you will willingly share your experiences so that we can all learn. Thank you all in advance.
Question: (3 parts)
1) What equipment/systems failures have you had whilst "out there"? (however big or small)
2) How did you overcome these failures?
3) What was the lesson learned for the future?
We all hope to set sail on the perfect boat but we also all know that "Murphy's Law" rules at sea.
__________________
__________________
|
|
|
03-23-2007, 12:21 PM
|
#2
|
Admiral
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,619
|
Oh, I feel a quote coming on.....
As a system increases in complexity to infinity,
the mean time between failures approaches zero.
I forget who said it originally but I do love that quote.
Systems - not for me thank you. I am a hard core believer in the KISS concept. At least that way one does not loose everything at the same time.
Stephen
Yacht NAUSIKAA
__________________
|
|
|
03-23-2007, 01:34 PM
|
#3
|
Lieutenant
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 68
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nausikaa
As a system increases in complexity to infinity,
the mean time between failures approaches zero.
I forget who said it originally but I do love that quote.
|
What a great Quote!!
My wife and I have always been of the mindset that the more complex our sailboat systems would become, the more time (and money) we would spend maintaining and repairing those systems. (I would rather be sitting on deck with a Mojito!!  )
We have long been fans of backpacking for weeks on end. It teaches you that the most serious issues in your life (at least for the next few weeks), get quickly narrowed to Fresh Water, Shelter and Food. We have wished to adopt this mentality to sailboating and believe that many of the systems aboard can be diminished to a more simple concept. Example, non pressurized water system. Redundant foot and hand pumps from the water tank in both the head and galley. Shake up flashlights, windable lanters, H20 solar bags and thermoses, hank on instead of roller furling, freeze dried foods, etc... Of course this asn't always practicle and safe. Nothing can replace a good chartplotter and VHF but the idea was to keep it as simple as we could possibly keep it. I have seen and heard of sailboats with every type of convenience known to modern man that couldn't get away from the dock since there was always something that needed the owners attention. NOTHING more frustrating in my book!!
Bajamas
__________________
Goin' where the weather suits my clothes!
|
|
|
03-23-2007, 03:09 PM
|
#4
|
Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,098
|
Are you sure you want this list? Here goes.
SV Watermelon is a 1981 Jeanneau Sun Fizz. We bought her in 1985.
1985: Installed Hood roller furling on headstay. Parts broke in 1987/88, difficulty getting replacement part. Over next few years, until replaced with a Furlex unit in 1988 and moved Hood unit to the inner forestay where it worked better because a much smaller sail, not used as often.
1985: Rewired the boat with shore tie and battery charger (from 220V to 110V, was no shore tie 'til Peter installed one). Installed SS hot water heater (a bargain Peter found. More later on this).
1986: replaced failed refrigeration with Adler-Barbour cold Machine, which I liked a lot.
1987: Wind instruments failed, replaced with new Datamarine (cheaper than replacing sending unit of the system that came with the boat). datamarine lasted until lightning wiped it out in 1999.
1988: Hot water heater turned out to be a real rip-off, not SS tank, Peter removed the tank in handsfuls. Did not put in another HW heater until 1994.
1993, American Samoa: Refrigeration failed, cheaper and easier to replace with another drop-in Adler Barbour Cold Machine.
Replaced the head commode with a new (?) raritan (?) unit.
The Eno stove (enameled steel) that I loved finally became unrepairable because it was impossible to get parts for it. I had had the oven trays replaced by a SS fabricator in Ecuador, but parts of the stove continued to rust away and I couldn't find replacement burners this far away from Europe. Bought a Force 10 stove, outrageously expensive. To this day, I believe this was the biggest purchase mistake we made on the boat. I hated the Force 10.
1993/4 in Australia for cyclone season: Fresh water system (copper tubing) was developing more and more leaks, finally pulled it all out and replumbed with PVC pipe, really good system bought in OZ. Ended leaks, no further repairs while we owned the boat.
Galley Salt Water foot pump developed a leak, replaced with a Chinese knock-off of the Whale pump that was originally in there. It failed within the year, we bit the bullet and bought a Whale Pump, which served us for the 10 years until we sold the boat.
The less than one-year-old head leaked, rebuild kit leaked. Wrote to mfr. who said it wasn't designed for liveaboard use (!!!!!!!!!!), needed a sturdier head. I was furious! The cost to have a new head shipped to us from the States was ridiculous (West Marine offered a significant credit, but it wasn't enough to cover even half the costs of a new unit). Peter found a Blake head tossed by some other boat in the marina, it worked exceptionally well once he cleaned out the seaweed that was fouling the bowl and cobbled together a pump assembly.
Self-feathering prop removed for servicing while on the hard, it was quite corroded so we sent to the Australian Mfr. for complete rebuild/overhaul. Came back beautiful and with a new tail cone that was a zinc - clearly the original design, without integral zinc, was cause of our problems. The prop fellows in the marina yard installed the prop, and put it on backwards (don't ask). Had to haul the boat again to remove and reinstall the prop correctly.
New hot water heater installed. This one we checked over very carefully to verify that it was all stainless steel. No more problems with hot water heater after this install.
I'll have to think about the rest for a while. This is getting depressing, I think.
|
|
|
03-23-2007, 03:57 PM
|
#5
|
Retired Mod
Join Date: Mar 2007
Home Port: Durban
Posts: 2,984
|
I have copied this over from another thread as this fits in here as well.
Quote:
Our tankages on our 44' steel ketch was:
* Water = 1,200L
* Fuel = 1,000L for 80hp Lehman
Crossing the Indian Ocean - making good time, looking like 24/25 days.
Roughly half-way - becalmed!
Full fuel tank - startup the motor.
After 5 mins - no water pumping through. Shut down.
Open the raw-water pump - impeller shredded (New, 6 hours of motoring).
Get out the spare.
DISASTER!! Right packing box - wrong impeller!! (from the store - lesson learned here). Only one spare - afterall, we are a sailing yacht!
In case of emergency, pulled out spare hose and rigged raw water from the genset outlet to main engine inlet - cannot run main engine for long with this "hot" water intake.
We were becalmed for TEN days - not a breath to even take the "glass" off the sea. It was stifling hot. Long story but the passage eventually took 40 days.
So, what would you rather have had? Extra fuel? Extra water?
|
Lesson learned: Make absolutely sure when you buy something that the item inside the packing is the correct thing!
 : Most sections
|
|
|
03-23-2007, 08:02 PM
|
#6
|
Lieutenant
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 81
|
I think it was Hal Roth where I read this, but he stated when he bought a spare part, he IMMEDIATELY installed it and put the original back as a spare. That way he KNEW the spare worked.
I've sorta followed that advice ever since.
__________________
|
|
|
03-23-2007, 11:00 PM
|
#7
|
Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,098
|
Yup! that's Peter's policy, too!
|
|
|
03-24-2007, 01:59 AM
|
#8
|
Commander
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 143
|
When, as he often does, Michael begins to think he needs two spares, he takes off the almost new part, puts it with the old part in a locker, then installs the brand new one. I wonder what he plans to do when the new/new one goes? Use the almost new one or the old one first? I suppose all this redundancy should make me feel very secure.
__________________
|
|
|
03-26-2007, 05:47 AM
|
#9
|
Commander
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 156
|
I've had several items failure, but I'm at a truck stop in New Mexico and need to get to sleep, so I'll just tell you in detail about the one that bugged me the most.
I had a West Marine manual bilge pump *(see below). Now it looked pretty strong, and it cost enough for what it is. I bolted the thing to the outside of the cockpit next to the companionway, so that there would be no hatches to open to reach it in an emergency, as I sail singlehanded most of the time. I guess the month in the Arizona sun weakened it, as on her first ocean voyage in the San Pedro channel, the handle snapped at the joint (where the sturdy plastic handle meets a steel pin.) I was able to sort of manually push up and down on it to makeit work, but that bugged me. I have two electric bilge pumps on the Hard Knots, only one of them is automated, the other isn't used, as it's being saved for when the main one breaks.
Robin
*( GUZZLER/BOSWORTH Guzzler Manual Bilge Pumps, 400 and 500
Guzzler 400 and 500 Bilge Pumps Capable of a 12' suction lift and a 12' delivery head. Surface-mount pumps include a fixed...
From $54.99 USD)
__________________
|
|
|
03-26-2007, 07:54 AM
|
#10
|
Admiral
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,619
|
One trick I learnt the hard way many years ago was when I was aboard a converted wooden fishing boat. The stern gland was tight when the prop. was not turning but water poured in a soon as the prop was put in gear. The skipper was considering abandoning the boat (?) as the pumps could not keep the water out. Then I thought of a "trick" I had heard of years earlier....
We closed the sea water intake to the engine and loosened the hose connecting it to the engine's SW cooling pump. Suddenly we had an extra pump and were able to make port.
What lessons were learnt?
1. You can never have sufficient pumps
2. Improvission is a vertue for seamen
3. Never even contemplate abandoning a vessel until you can step UP into the liferaft
Aye
Stephen
yacht NAUSIKAA
|
|
|
03-26-2007, 10:15 AM
|
#11
|
Ensign
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 6
|
Biggest Failures:
DC Charging Systems. I tell friends and customers that on a cruising boat your DC charging system is the most critical and, if not properly done, a major system for headaches. Start with the largest bank of high quality batteries that you can afford. I prefer AGM or Lifeline over all others for the crusing sailor (pass on any lead acid including 6 volts). Then use great care in installing and wiring these batteries; high quality boat cable of adequate gauge and equal length to individual bank controllers and a positive distribution point.
Your charging generator should also be the best you can get. I recommend the Balmar 100amp. If you exceed this, you MUST increase to a bigger chassis and dual pulley system.
If long lays at anchorage are in your future, you can lighten the load on your engine and alternator with either wind or solar or both.
Keep your DC installation clean and neat and stick to ABYC standards for wiring and you'll have years of hassle free service, even in harsh ocean cruising conditions. And finish it off with a good monitoring system. Doesn't have to be a high dollar unit. I prefer a Blue Seas digital monitor on the discharge side and just a basic analog ammeter system on the charge side over a combined unit.
The only spares I keep for this system, a stock alternator, spare regulator and belts. I also keep supplies for any electrical repairs on hand including wiring, terminal fittings and GOOD wiring tools.
Auto pilots. Single most important piece of electronics on your boat. I carry a full spare Autohelm 4000. Even if you splurge to an electric or hydraulic unit, you are still open for at sea failures. Long shorthanded legs is the primary opportunity for exhaustion to set in. The expensive units fail to and keeping spare parts can get exhorbantly expensive. THat 4000 will give you a long service life if you are diligent about keeping your sail plan properly balanced to keep the work load down on the light weight motor and drive pullys and belt.
The rest of my electronics have performed flawlessly, but I keep a handheld GPS, VHF and Sat phone as well as boat and individual locators for a disaster at sea.
My personal failures in a one year cruise (all have been upgraded since and all working fine). Multiple alternator failured due to low quality and installation shortcomings. Batteries due to small bank of low quality batteries and poor charging alternator, and a single failure of the autopilot 4000 where the pullys began to desinegrate in the last week of a year long trip.
__________________
|
|
|
03-26-2007, 10:28 AM
|
#12
|
Retired Mod
Join Date: Mar 2007
Home Port: Durban
Posts: 2,984
|
@bluh20
 : Most sections
|
|
|
03-27-2007, 03:31 AM
|
#13
|
Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,098
|
thanks, Bluh20
More failures.
The boat came with a robertson Autopilot. It failed in 1987. Peter decided to replace it with a new, improved Robertson Autopilot (which billed itself as one of the best around). We used the wind vane most of the time, but when we were motoring in light to no wind we would use the autopilot. So the new one failed in 1991 in Costa Rica, we had it repaired at great expense, and again in 1993 on our way to American Samoa. Most electronics fail "off", but both times the autopilot failed, it failed "on", so Peter had to disconnect it! We had to practically threaten the dealer to get it fixed, and I insisted on receiving the bad (mother board - something to that effect, anyway). An electronics engineer cruising friend took a look at it and said the problem was a bad design.
We finally wound up replacing it when in Singapore when it failed again and I refused to consider dealing with "those people" again.
An alternator failed on our way to Ecuador. Most difficult to get a new/rebuilt one where we were in Ecuador, but we managed.
|
|
|
04-09-2007, 03:27 AM
|
#14
|
Ensign
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 9
|
We've been out in some remote places of the South Pacific during our 17,000 nM over the past three years. We've seen every type of failure on lots of various manufactures products, Generator problems, in mast furler bearings shot, flooded engines, windless filled with water and on and on. The only thing I have to add is keep it simple and carry extended cruising spare parts if available, Shipping delays and Metric vs Standard sizing is really an issue in those out of the way places we love to travel.
We tried to keep track of what works and what doesn't on our "for future cruisers" web site
http://www.creative-cruising.com/what_works.htm.
Also check out the changes made and what didn't work page. We've been very lucky with no major failures but we do travel with the keep it simple mentality, but Murphy is out there.. we wrote a specific page dedicated specifically to our crew member in our journal pages http://www.neoscape.com/billabong/Journal/...rphys%20law.htm
Know your boat and the systems you put on inside and out. The first thing I do to a new boat is rip it to bits and put it back together so I know how everything works. I'm not sure how brand new boat owners survive without that step. If you like the out of the way places (not everyone does) and don't feel comfortable repairing or working on a piece of gear you have installed...maybe it shouldn't be on the boat or you should figure out how to get comfortable prior to leaving. Fear is a great motivator!!
It's a great lifestyle.. I'm not sure how we'll ever come back to the "land of stuff".
Chris
|
|
|
04-09-2007, 08:47 AM
|
#15
|
Commander
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 159
|
1) Battery monitor failed, a Link 2000R. As the regulator requires the battery monitor it wouldn't charge the batteries.
2) Batteries failed. See #1.
3) Both engine altenators failed. See #2.
4) Watermaker totally unacceptable water production. New watermaker.
5) Wind generator failed.
6) Feathering props failed in reverse.
7) Port engine transmission failed. See #6.
8) Water heater leaked.
9) Force 10 galley rebuild. See Jeanne's comments.
10) Dinghy outboard prop failed (rubber insert).
11) All hatches needed to be removed and resealed at the deck. All new gaskets for the frame.
12) All dock lines failed. Rarotonga surge broke them all.
I could continue for another 20 or 30 lines. Trampoline, spice rack, foot pump, lexan, sanitation hoses, etc. This is for THIS YEAR!
__________________
A`ohe `ulu e loa`a i ka pokole o ka lou.
No breadfruit can be reached when the picking stick is too short.
|
|
|
04-09-2007, 03:13 PM
|
#16
|
Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,098
|
Watermelon was 22 years old when we sold her, and one of the few things that never gave us trouble were the Goiot hatches. They never leaked a drop. Perhaps because they were dogged down with a screw mechanism. A bit more work to dog and open, but pretty tough to break or wear them out. We used to get annoyed with the difficulties of getting various French-produced parts, but although abuse and lots of wear wore out a few bits, I can't think of any Goiot hardware that failed from normal wear and tear.
Abuse and mistakes made by us or the previous owners, or bad luck, did cause some problems, but they were in the nature of damage, not normal wear and tear breakdowns. That includes the prop strut and the transmission (though the transmission was not particularly good from the day we installed it).
In all fairness to boats and their builders, most boat gear is a compromise between heftiness and space and weight-savings. There are probably some "bullet-proof" gear that isn't installed because of weight or size.
|
|
|
04-10-2007, 12:12 AM
|
#17
|
Ensign
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 29
|
We spent 5 yrs getting the boat 'ready' to go cruising as she was vintage 1985 when we bought her in 2000. We addressed the following during the period [and spent lots of boat units and time]
8/2000 New Main, New 140% Genoa, New Asymmetrical
8/2000 Replace All Standing and Running Rigging, All New Norseman Fittings, All New 1X19 Wire, Replace Steering Cables
8/2000 Replace Aft Holding tank with Lectrasan, Install new 30 gal. Holding tank Forward, Install Galvanic Isolator
Rebuild Rudder [remove skins, new foam, reseal], Install Spurs Cutter - Assembly C with 1 ½” Holding Block 3
Install PSS Dripless Shaft seal [stuffing box]
10/2000 New Max Prop 19” 3 blade uses 83mm zincs
3/2001 12v Supply side replacement
New Main Battery Bank –12 Rolls Batteries – 840 amp hours
New Vital 270 amp primary alternator
New Vital 135 amp secondary alternator
Install Link 2000R Regulator for primary
Install InCharge Regulator for engine start
Prosine 2.0 Inverter Charger
Replace Engine Exhaust Hose
Upgrade Windlass Circuit Breaker and remote
New Master Switches, Terminal strips, wire, etc. as necessary
4/2001 Repaired leaking fixed ports (all six)
9/2001 Replaced both throttle and shift cables
3/2002 New Handcraft Inner Spring Mattress for aft stateroom
9/2002 Replaced main DC motor on refrigeration, Replaced Condenser and control on Air-conditioning
9/2002 Completion of deck project - Removed teak decks, rebuild so ready for Alwgrip, Awlgrip topsides, deck, and mast, Install new teak decking in cockpit , Replace all deck hardware with Harken Black Magic cars and adjustable jib leads, Replace teak hand rails with stainless steel ones, New Wavestopper Hard Dodger with dual height Bimini
New Screens, New Hatch sun covers, New canvas for all other misc. items,
3/2003 Rework fuel system for primary diesel install, Dual - Racor filter set-up with ability to polish fuel from tank.
6/2003 New Simrad AP22 Autopilot with remote and new Raytheon Type 2 long linear drive, Upgrade B&G to include compass
11/2003 Rebuild Battcar system all new torlon bearings, Add Stainless bowsprit
5/2004 Peel Bottom for Blister repair – add 1 layer biaxle cloth and repair with Dow 8084 vinyl ester.
5/2004 Add Kato Voyager davits, Kato motor lift and reinforce transom to support, New Fisher Panda generator PMS 4200 Plus, Redo 2 closets to dressers and line with cedar, Add non-skid to “Bob deck”, Add Lewmar opening port over galley stove, Repair Refrigerator Box, Replace all dome lights
3/2005 New Interior Cushions Main Salon / Forward Pullman Double
3/2005 New Watermaker – Sea Recovery 300 gal/day not installing membrane so warranty does not begin until membrane installed
5/2005 Add new secondary anchors and rodes [Spade A140 & Fortress FX37]
8/2005 Install KISS Wind Generator on Pole, new #3 jib
3/2006 Update Engine - New raw water pump, hoses, heat exchanger, exhaust elbow, etc.
4/2006 Replaced refrigeration with new Sea Frost system
The above represented the significant stuff prior to taking off cruising for 'X' yrs. We left in June 2006 and before we got back to Annapolis in October on our way south, where we started from the following failed:
Generator - replaced under warranty - failed 2x
Battcar track screws needed to all be rebedded with locktite as a few vibrated out
snatch blocks blew up while flying the spinnaker
self tailer on one winch failed which required new parts
The above is in addition to normal wear and tear items that go with any boat. The message is no matter how much you prepare and think you have it all covered, something will not work when you expect it to.
Ah fixing boats.... where ever you are.
__________________
Jon D
SV Sirius
Moody 47
|
|
|
04-10-2007, 01:24 AM
|
#18
|
Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2006
Home Port: Who cares really...
Vessel Name: T
Posts: 1,215
|
I had a $5 water hose (between raw water pump & heat exchanger) break that almost sank my boat.
Lessons learned:
1) Cheapest parts can cause greatest damage.
2) Diesels engines can continue running when almost completely submerged.
__________________
[
|
|
|
04-10-2007, 04:49 AM
|
#19
|
Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2006
Home Port: Who cares really...
Vessel Name: T
Posts: 1,215
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluh20
Start with the largest bank of high quality batteries that you can afford. I prefer AGM or Lifeline over all others for the crusing sailor (pass on any lead acid including 6 volts).
|
For long distance cruising purposes, I could put forth a VERY strong arguement why anything other than 6 Volt Lead Acid would be a mistake.
Could you share why you believe AGM is a better choice?
__________________
[
|
|
|
04-10-2007, 01:05 PM
|
#20
|
Ensign
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 29
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trim50
For long distance cruising purposes, I could put forth a VERY strong arguement why anything other than 6 Volt Lead Acid would be a mistake.
Could you share why you believe AGM is a better choice?
|
I agree with the high quality lead acid comment...
__________________
__________________
Jon D
SV Sirius
Moody 47
|
|
|
 |
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|