Originally Posted by Calliste
Thank You for your reply Michael .
My usual problem when cutting threads with a die on a shaft, is that the threads don't cut evenly square to that shaft.
I think it is because I am not able to hold the "Tee" handle square to start the threads, with ?
I did run a 1/8" X 27 tapered pipe tap down into the hole in the side of the seacock, but it didn't bottom out on anything,,,, must be , because it went into the thru hole in the ball , this is the shut off position.
I am wondering if there will be any pink showing on the threaded seacock body, which is not readily vissable ?
That little thing you're talking about is the drain plug. I would imagine that your vendor/supplier may have used a brass plug rather than bronze. The rest of the valve body casting may very well be bronze but the plug not. Replacing it makes good sense. If you don't have a threaded drain plug, yes, make your own, for sure. Luckily for you, it isn't a structural part of the seacock.
It is difficult to thread a shaft as you've mentioned. Hubby has become quite expert at the task since he threaded bronze rod from 1/4" up to 1" rod stock during our rebuild. His advice--put the rod (your bolt stock) into a vise--once you've started the threading, you have some key moments early on to make it right--use a T-Square or triangle, don't eye-ball it. Use a tapping fluid or other lubricant to make your job easier. You can change things within the first several threads and then you're stuck with your results after that.
With a traditional boat, we mostly (99% of them!) bronze fasteners throughout the boat. So, we keep scraps of keel bolts (bronze from 5/8" up to 1") as well as bits of bronze rod stock in smaller sizes around to make our own long bolts as needed. We, of course, have to keep nuts and washers of the same sizes as the rod stock but it all works out.