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Old 10-28-2008, 11:38 AM   #1
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Any ideas for a temporary leak stop in a built in S/S water tank? The leak is tiny but it weeps from behind the cabinetry and soaks into the sole carpet ( which is the main issue right now, as I'm stuck for time to do a proper job of taking the tank out.)

Can anyone think of a liquid sealant that I can add to the water that would find its way to the leak spot and seal it temporarily similar to a radiator stop leak additive? I don't necessarily need to be able to drink from this tank( that would be a bonus) but boat balance may be an issue if I just drain it.

Cheers, Alan
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Old 10-28-2008, 01:13 PM   #2
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Do you know where the leak is? One of our water tanks had a pinhole leak where the spot weld holding the interior baffles corroded. Peter put a spot of epoxy on the hole when the water level was below the leak, and it held and we never had another problem.

There is an hydraulic epoxy that cures underwater that you could mix and press against the leak if you can reach it.

I know of nothing that would work from the inside, and radiator leak stuff is toxic and probably would not work in your water tank anyway.

If you don't plan to drink from this tank, why don't you just drain it and not use it until you can do a proper fix or replacement? I can't see why you would be so concerned about balance with the tank empty - isn't the water regularly used? If this is a water ballast tank and you are racing, calculate how much the water in the tank would weigh (8.3 pounds per gallon) and shift around some weight in the boat to compensate.
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Old 10-28-2008, 05:39 PM   #3
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JeanneP, thankyou for your quick reply. I think "drain and proper job later" is the best option. The tank is built in under the port settee with no access to view the outside of it to look for the leak spot, only access right now is through the inspection plate on top of tank to look inside. Cheers, Alan
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Old 10-28-2008, 05:42 PM   #4
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Drain tank, mix up some "Splash zone" underwater epoxy, mash it into and around leak, let cure...Good band-aid for years! Make sure the tank surface is wiped clean first with acetone or equivilant, sanding area to add texture helps the epoxy stick better too...Good luck!
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Old 11-22-2008, 06:55 AM   #5
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Hello Allan, I had the same problem with one of my stainless tanks. Used a product called Microseal often used for surface sealing important metal castings. It's some sort of resin dissolved in acetone. It's permanent, seeks deeply into pinholes and cracks. It's quite thin in consistency and needs 2-3 coats 12hrs between coats. I did my 4 tanks. seems a good product,..fairly cheap too, but only comes in gallons. I gall would do 20 tanks LOL. Clean the tank and brush it on, let dry. It's FDA approved for food and water contact.

$49 US /Gal + FRT

FOB Rome New York. They will take Plastic to pay. Nice people. 1-800 411 6025. USA www.microleak.com Regards. Les
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Old 11-22-2008, 02:30 PM   #6
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I think this might be the small user, water-based version of Microseal: Captain Tolley's Crack Cure Sealant

I've never used it for water tanks, but I've used it on the deck of Watermelon; it seals tiny cracks in fiberglass under stanchions, etc., to keep water out.
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Old 11-22-2008, 06:26 PM   #7
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Les and JeaneP, you are on to it, that's the sort of STUFF this problem needs! You see the issue is I have NO way of finding the actual location of the leak. I can peer inside the tank and see more or less where the problem may be, joints , rivets, etc and apply STUFF to all those areas. In the interim, to get me home with the use of both tanks I have rigged up a drain line 1/4 " plastic hose where the settee joins the sole( this is where the carpet gets wet) and directed it into the bilge. I can monitor the leaking water here and it's no more than a cupful / 24hrs, and I have dry carpet in the saloon!

Sounds like your ideas may efect a more permanent fix so I may not have to rip out the settee to get the tank leak fixed after all!

Thankyou both.

Alan

P.S. I'm currently sheltering from a gale in Apollo Bay, Victoria, 1770 miles to go to WA!
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Old 11-22-2008, 07:27 PM   #8
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You say you can get to the inside of the tank via an inspection opening ? ... try caulking from the inside with 3M 5200 waterproof sealant.
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aragosa View Post
Hello Allan, I had the same problem with one of my stainless tanks. Used a product called Microseal often used for surface sealing important metal castings. It's some sort of resin dissolved in acetone. It's permanent, seeks deeply into pinholes and cracks. It's quite thin in consistency and needs 2-3 coats 12hrs between coats. I did my 4 tanks. seems a good product,..fairly cheap too, but only comes in gallons. I gall would do 20 tanks LOL. Clean the tank and brush it on, let dry. It's FDA approved for food and water contact.

$49 US /Gal + FRT

FOB Rome New York. They will take Plastic to pay. Nice people. 1-800 411 6025. USA www.microleak.com Regards. Les
Hi Les,

Just wondering how that Microseal is holding up since we are considering going the same route with our 2 slowly leaking water tanks.

What did you use to clean the tanks with and did you do it from the inside only or also from the outside?

Thanks for feedback.

Alex
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Old 10-01-2011, 07:08 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by islandseeker View Post

Drain tank, mix up some "Splash zone" underwater epoxy, mash it into and around leak, let cure...Good band-aid for years! Make sure the tank surface is wiped clean first with acetone or equivilant, sanding area to add texture helps the epoxy stick better too...Good luck!
Unless the tank is plumbed or something equally complex, you may just be able to find a bag type liner somewhere. A solution like that may be much easier than trying to find a coating that will A) seal the leak not contaminate your fresh water and C) be successful in small enough amounts that you don't have to try to figure out how to empty a full tank of it.
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calemonlaw View Post

bag type liner
What is meant by a bag type liner ? How would one connect it to the boat's water supply ?
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Old 10-02-2011, 05:40 PM   #12
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I don't think there is such a thing as a "bag type liner", Richard. However, some people do cut into their tanks (e.g. from the top) and place the bladder type water bags inside. This doesn't use the space as efficiently as a rigid tank but can provide a short-term and DIY fix when it is too difficult or costly to remove a badly corroded or damaged tank.
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMNETSEA View Post

What is meant by a bag type liner ? How would one connect it to the boat's water supply ?
An alternative to a case or box, a boat bag is specifically designed for on the water use.

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Old 10-31-2011, 03:39 AM   #14
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Rainwater tanks are used for the storage of water for drinking, bathing and cooking. Ialso want to install rainwater tank at my home but I have no any idea about thebest rainwater tanks.



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Old 10-31-2011, 06:31 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordondi View Post

Rainwater tanks are used for the storage of water for drinking, bathing and cooking. Ialso want to install rainwater tank at my home but I have no any idea about thebest rainwater tanks.




Welcome to Cruiser Log. We have an interest always in collecting rainwater on the boat. This forum is for cruisers not home owners of course. If you have a boat--how will you collect rainwater on the boat?
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Old 08-08-2016, 09:20 PM   #16
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With thin stainless tanks, the water sloshing fore and aft sometimes flexes the ends, causing the corners to break down from metal fatigue. Putting a solid 3/4 inch ply bulkhead up against the ends, to stop the flexing, can reduce the problem.
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