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05-06-2007, 07:55 AM
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#1
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Rear Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 323
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Are battery desulphators proven, or is this a bunch of hype by the companies that sell them?
Do you use one and what are the results?
Do they work?
Is it worth it?
For example:
http://www.vdcelectronics.com/index.htm
Click on Boats
Click on Learning Center (Top Right)
In the drop down menu, Desulphation
Related Topic: West Marine Advisor; Charging Batteries:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/store...eryCharging.htm
Which makes good sense, but no mention is made of desulpation.
On a different site:
http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html#9
I chased links to this topic:
http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/...16.htm#recover
This in part states:
16.3.1.3. Use a desulfator, pulse charger or desulfating mode on a battery charger. A list of some desulfator or pulse charger manufacturers is available on the Battery References Links List at http://www.batteryfaq.org. Please note that despite desulfator manufacturers' claims, some battery experts feel that desulfators or pulse chargers do not work any better at removing permanent or preventing sulfation than do constant voltage chargers.
I am having difficulty forming a good and un-biased conclusion.
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05-06-2007, 12:05 PM
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#2
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Ensign
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 29
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Jon D
SV Sirius
Moody 47
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05-06-2007, 06:48 PM
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#3
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Rear Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 323
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Thanks Jon D; interesting thread.
btrayfors / Bill, seems to have taken an interest in the topic, attempting to prove or disprove the concept, although so far he admits inconclusively.
I like his observation, questioning various manufacturers claims of making the best pulsating gadget, but each varies, {quote} "They were often VERY different in terms of frequency, amplitude, amperage, pulse width, pulse duration, etc. They can't ALL be right, can they???"
I tend to agree with his statement, "Guess I'm still a fence sitter. I think the theory, roughly, makes sense." I am skeptical of the "Snake Oil" sales pitch, as is he. That is why I started this post, looking for answers; looking for unbiased scientific evidence, attempting to prolong the life and reliability of batteries, while reducing the cost of using them.
It would be great if an independent testing lab, a university, or a large consumer / user of batteries (a fleet of trucks, ships, or forklifts), conducted research on the topic. Further if such a fleet, found justification and adapted wide spread usage of such equipment.
What are your thoughts, observations and experiences?
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05-07-2007, 07:01 AM
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#4
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Ensign
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 17
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I purchased one in tahiti off a dealer with al the promises etc.. 12 months later I cant decide if in fact it was worth the money as Ive had to replace 3 relatively new and two older batterries on the bank.. So at a guess id say it didnt work as it should've..
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05-07-2007, 08:20 AM
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#5
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Rear Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 323
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southpacific,
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Of course I do not know your battery bank setup, but if I understand you correctly, you are mixing new batteries with others of various ages. If that is correct, it could be contributing to having to replace 3 relatively new batteries.
In simple terms, batteries in a circuit, try to balance themselves electrically. The stronger ones try to carry the load of the weaker ones. The weaker ones drag down the rest, causing them to fail prematurely. The same is true of individual cells within in each battery; one cell can and will cause a battery to fail.
Jeff
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05-08-2007, 02:29 AM
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#6
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Admiral
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,067
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Here is another process to consider :-
CHEMICAL DESULFATORS
* EDTA (ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid) is well known to the medical
profession as a chelator that tie up poisonous heavy metal ions to form
a chelate or complex ion that can be eliminated from the body. This
same reaction will occur in a battery to drive lead sulfate to
dissolution. This reaction does not destroy the EDTA, rather the EDTA
is regenerated and the sulfate is precipitated to the bottom of the
battery case.
* Proponents of EDTA therapy recommend that EDTA be added to new
batteries as a preventive medicine. 4 years ago friend bought 5 new
batteries. 4 batteries treated, one did not. The untreated battery
died last year, all 4 treated batteries load test like new.
* EDTA is a dry white powder available as DI-SODIUM SALTS or
TETRA-SODIUM SALTS. It's the TETRA-SODIUM you want for your battery. Friend
paid US$ 4/kilo in Penang - 80 Chulia Street - Owner 81.
* Be aware that EDTA will not dissolve in battery acid but dissolves
easily in distilled water so don't try dumping the powder directly into
your battery.
* How much? Best information so far is one tablespoon EDTA/liter of
cell capacity. This doesn't seem all that precise so try 1
tablespoon per cell on a 70AH battery. For larger batteries scale up.
Use a proper kitchen measuring spoon, not the eating kind, EDTA
dissolves easily in an equal amount of distilled water.
* Mix, disolving the lumps, then add the EDTA solution to your battery
one cell at a time.
* Be aware this therapy will not restore life to shorted, disintegrated,
or warped plates but will restore badly sulfated batteries that have
been left unused awaiting disposal.
* In most cases a one time treatment is all that’s required for
batteries in service. Deep cycle batteries from the scrap yard if badly
sulfated may require a double treatment and a month connected to your
bank for results.
* Friend visited the battery graveyard at Rebak Marina and found several test
specimens. Example: a battery that measured 11.8V no load and
absolutely zero under load test will now start a diesel after 3 weeks
connected to his bank. At time of this writing these junk batteries have
been in service about 4 years and show no sign of degradation.
* Treatment as preventive medicine to new batteries gets no reaction.
But be careful, pour slowly into an old, heavily sulfated, battery. It
will boil, spit, sputter, and quickly get hot just sitting there before
charging.
* Over the long term the chelate will collect in the bottom until it
starts to cover plates and reduce available area. friend assured that the
chelate is an insulator so all that will happen is reduction of plate
area reducing battery performance. The BIG question: can this chelate
be flushed and battery life can start over as a virgin?
Apart from my friend's experience - I have 1 battery that is still operating
my radio after 8 years continuous service - secret = Charge no more than a
digitally calibrated float charge of 13.52 volts - plus a shot of EDTA 5 years ago.
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