Barient 32 St Winch

[tartanss]

Hi, just joined and am having probs posting a question on tavern or about the winch. If anyone can help--- the top nut on the st32 barient winch is siezed and will not move even with a 600mm lever. is it pos to remove the s/t top to get a pipe wrench on the nut and try not to damage it of course. any help would be appreciated.Rob

[MMNETSEA]

Penetrating Oil - 24 hours, then check this site Barient Winches

P.S.

Apologies the above link appears to be non-functional. Try this one it works and also covers the ST Barient 32 - CLICK HERE

[MMNETSEA]

This could be the "deck plate key" to open the "drum nut"

[redbopeep]

We have the same 32's. As I recall, once you take off the little deckplate thing--which shouldn't be difficult (The penetrating oil can help if it is rusted), the entire top just comes off and you have access to all the "guts" of the winch. Are yours anodized aluminum or bronze or chrome over bronze? I suppose the aluminum or bronze could corrode into the stainless deckplate...but should be easy to get apart.

Good Luck!

[tartanss]

Originally Posted by tartanss

Hi, just joined and am having probs posting a question on tavern or about the winch. If anyone can help--- the top nut on the st32 barient winch is siezed and will not move even with a 600mm lever. is it pos to remove the s/t top to get a pipe wrench on the nut and try not to damage it of course. any help would be appreciated.Rob

thanks for the advice----they are aluminium and probably have corroded with the stainless so lots or wd40 and will try some more--- am currently working in Mackay north of Brisbane Aus at the moment so will attack the job again next week--- would heating the locking nut with a small gas torch help to free it thanks Rob

[redbopeep]

Originally Posted by tartanss

thanks for the advice----they are aluminium and probably have corroded with the stainless so lots or wd40 and will try some more--- am currently working in Mackay north of Brisbane Aus at the moment so will attack the job again next week--- would heating the locking nut with a small gas torch help to free it thanks Rob

I would think a penetrating oil would work fine on its own. We use PB Blaster for iron-based alloys/steel/etc. For bronze-to-bronze things (like rigging screws) we use a thinned lanolin oil, though. Aluminum often "welds" itself nicely to things and thus you might find that heat is useful if the penetrating oil by itself just doesn't do the trick.

GL