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Old 05-20-2011, 01:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Silver Raven View Post

Kevin, I don't know anybody by that name !! Further more - "You simply can't" etc etc. Seems to me you've missed something here, as in - I just did !! - exactly that !!



Oh & while we're at it. Would you please confine your comments, questions & observations in these 'forums' to relevant subjects. The 'boat' to 'Titan' is as relevant as dog do-do, & assists no one in furthering their knowledge & ability to more safely 'Cruise & Sail' the world (earth). IMHO & I thank-you, jj
Very sorry. I posted my request before you posted your "tricks". I had thought all my posts where on relevant subjects. I am honestly not sure what you are referring to...? Please excuse me if I have somehow offered offence.
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Old 06-29-2011, 04:36 PM   #16
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I think paint makes more sense. We used Brightsides, and it is fine and has held up for about three years. If I were to do it again I would use a two part Linear Polyurathane (like the Interlux Perfection). I've painted both brightside and perfection onto boats before and both level when rolled and brushed as well as anything I have ever seen sprayed. Make sure that you properly thin your paint with the right thinner (333 for brightsides) (I've added too little thinner once with time consuming results).
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Old 06-30-2011, 12:55 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by SV Silver Lining View Post

I think paint makes more sense. We used Brightsides, and it is fine and has held up for about three years. If I were to do it again I would use a two part Linear Polyurathane (like the Interlux Perfection). I've painted both brightside and perfection onto boats before and both level when rolled and brushed as well as anything I have ever seen sprayed. Make sure that you properly thin your paint with the right thinner (333 for brightsides) (I've added too little thinner once with time consuming results).
I use Brightsides also and for my use it is perfect. I had a LPU sprayed on coating years ago and after a few local canoe dings it looked terrible when repaired. Roll on and brush tipped makes it very smooth.
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:56 AM   #18
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May I ask what kind of brushes you are using? these days you have everything from natural hair brushes (which very widely in the quality you get), synthetics, and sponge brushes (which depending on the foam used to form them can give a finer finish then even a high grade natural hair brush). All the work I have done on boats over the years has been paint or epoxy of one kind or another. Most two part paints are either epoxies with a really long working time or a very close relative polymer. They work great from what I have seen in the Great Lakes and on the boats here in the Fife. Also epoxy with micro copper embedded also works great up here (there are a few boats who have had the same coat for over 4 yrs and only needed to wash down and buff to get it looking great and still intact [these are not "copper coat" boats, which is a trade name for a specific formula of epoxy to copper ratio]).

I am still learning though as all my work on painting boats has been as a monkey with a brush or roller. Good luck and have fun as lot's of information out there and most of it suspect (luckily here folks are up front and it helps a lot).

Michael
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:06 AM   #19
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Having done this to my 40'er only two years ago.

Rolling and tipping is a great method but extremely time consuming and weather dependent.

I CANNOT recommend Altex products.

I can recommend International Perfection.

Paint is a far more effective procedure than Gelcoat.

Get all the advice you can find.

Then practice , practice , practice.

Then fight the fear and do it. The results will justify the lead up.

Take plenty of time and do not give yourself a time schedule.

I hope that helps and if you look for my other posts you will see photos of Blue Lady after all our work.

Cheers

Rob & Annette

S/V Blue Lady
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:37 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Qldcruiser View Post

Having done this to my 40'er only two years ago.

olling and tipping is a g.reat metRhod but extremely time consuming and weather dependent



I CANNOT recommend Altex products
.

I can recommend International Perfection.

Paint is a far more effective procedure than Gelcoat.

Get all the advice you can find.

Then practice , practice , practice.

Then fight the fear and do it. The results will justify the lead up.

Take plenty of time and do not give yourself a time schedule.

I hope that helps and if you look for my other posts you will see photos of Blue Lady after all our work.

Cheers

Rob & Annette

S/V Blue Lady
Gidday Rob & Annette

Read with alarm on your comment re Altex paint.

This is the second bad comment on Altex paint i have heard lately. Mainly to do with loss of gloss and durability within 18 months.

I was just about to embark on spraying the topsides with Altex #3, #2, & then Altex E-line 379. Its a lot of work to have a poor result 18 months down the track.

This came from a pro painter. He said it was harder to spray than Interlux 2 pack, as well.

Could you please elaborate on you experience?

PM me if you don't want it on the web.

Cheers,

Roly
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:16 PM   #21
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I have decided to spray 379 on the transom. (Prepped with epoxy primer) As a test panel.
Kinda limit my exposure to fubar.
Guys at Altex have been extremely helpful.
Unlike others. It is a pity some humans a scared of their own shadow.

Anecdotal evidence is just that. There are a number of variables, despite
the skill of the applicator.
I will post a piccy of the results for any that may consider similar.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:53 PM   #22
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Default Altex E-line 379

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Originally Posted by delatbabel View Post
I second the recommendation for Devoe 379, it's essentially the same as the Altex 379. It's a two pack polyurethane, ideal as a top coat, easy to get on, good coverage and it looks fine even brushed on. Under it I'd use a two pack epoxy system like the Altex 2000. I wouldn't recommend using any single part paint on any part of any boat of any kind, anywhere, ever.
How about Altex #3 undercoat under it? Historically there was an issue with number three hardening over time & pinging the topcoat off, but I believe that has been resolved ?
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:09 AM   #23
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Fear of our own shadows is not the issue here. The word is litigation, both to the site owners and to the poster.

I wish you the best of luck with Altex and hope it all goes well. Heaven help you if it doesn't.

Cheers
Rob
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:01 PM   #24
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Thanks for the heads up Rob.
The transom is only a small area, so it wont be the end of the world as 20% is teak anyway.
And it really should be antiskid as it is access.
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