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07-25-2009, 08:50 AM
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#1
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Admiral
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,067
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There a number of proprietary products that claim to keep barnacles off your propeller.
Apart from painting the prop with antifoul when the boat is out of the water - what works and what
doesn't ?
Examples :- Waterproof wheel bearing grease - Lanolin based grease - Grease plus chilli powder - Grease plus terramycin (Oxytetracycline) - Grease plus quinine etc.....
What does work is a thin walled plastic bag clamped with a rubber band, not sure what happens to it if one forgets to take it off.
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07-25-2009, 09:18 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2007
Home Port: Washington DC
Vessel Name: SV Mahdee
Posts: 3,236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMNETSEA
There a number of proprietary products that claim to keep barnacles off your propeller.
Apart from painting the prop with antifoul when the boat is out of the water - what works and what
doesn't ?
Examples :- Waterproof wheel bearing grease - Lanolin based grease - Grease plus chilli powder - Grease plus terramycin (Oxytetracycline) - Grease plus quinine etc.....
What does work is a thin walled plastic bag clamped with a rubber band, not sure what happens to it if one forgets to take it off.
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You know, we've heard that 'coloring' the prop with a sharpie (when hauled out) works better than prop antifoul paint. Of course, when we relaunched the boat--we completely forgot that we'd bought a big sharpie just to try it. So, we have NOTHING on the prop and it along with the stern tube are the only things getting covered in barnacles between cleanings. It is strange, because the bronze stern tube has some antifouling paint on it but it is growing barnacles,too.
I had not heard of using some of the waterproof greases or lanolin,but perhaps we'll try this next time David dives to clean the hull. Seems that he could use the very thick lanolin that we got...would be better than nothing perhaps.
What have you used? Other than antifouling paint?
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07-25-2009, 10:55 PM
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#3
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Admiral
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,067
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Hi Brenda,
Have had good results with black plastic bags -- one small, tight fitting on each blade, secured with a rubber band.
Used to be able to get a water proof grease made for Toyota which contained copper as an anti-seize component - it worked while boat was stationary.
In the USA a company called Schaeffer make a Hi-Temp Grease With Copper (#286C),
it might also be worth trying as the spec says it stays on in really tough conditions.
A first class grease for severe marine conditions was Duckhams Keenol - now replaced by
DUCKHAMS ADMAX LBM10 GREASE -- website Data Spec -- this grease can be applied under water. If the boat is stationary the grease stay on and the barnacles don't like it.
What is a "sharpie"
Richard
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07-25-2009, 11:20 PM
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#4
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Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2007
Home Port: Washington DC
Vessel Name: SV Mahdee
Posts: 3,236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMNETSEA
What is a "sharpie"
Richard
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sharpie here!
Some folks have found out quite by accident that the permanent marker writing on their propeller kept the barnacles at bay.
I don't know if it works.
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07-26-2009, 09:41 AM
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#5
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Admiral
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,067
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Brenda,
Heard exactly the same - although the brand name was not given as "Sharpie"
Wonder if it is only that brand or do other wide felt tipped permanent markers also work?
If it works it would be very useful to know the chemistry.
(Would it be outrageous to suggest that they are now all made by one factory in that country south of Siberia? )
Richard
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07-26-2009, 08:39 PM
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#6
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Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,098
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We had a two-part finish put on our props in late 2007, called "Propspeed". *We did it in desperation, previous years the barnacles on the props was so bad that we had to be hauled twice a year just to clean the props. *The props are still clean, the first time the boat has had no barnacles since we've owned the boat.
Here's the web site link. *this is very expensive stuff. * http://www.propspeed.com/index.html
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07-27-2009, 12:22 PM
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#7
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 3
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I don't know what works, but I know lanolin isn't the answer. Last year when we hauled, I coated the heck out of the shaft and prop. This spring when I dove the boat to clean the bottom, the only barnacles we had were on the shaft and prop. The lanolin was nowhere to be seen, must have spun off under power, who knows....
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09-16-2009, 01:27 AM
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#8
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 41
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Propspeed is very expensive, our yard want about $200 to apply it! I've also read somewhere about permanent marker working and that the way I'm going to go for my next haulout. Interesting that prospeed is silicone based, maybe a coating of sika could be the go!
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09-16-2009, 06:36 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2007
Home Port: Washington DC
Vessel Name: SV Mahdee
Posts: 3,236
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I've often wondered about the value of the prop vs the value of the anti-fouling/scrubbing effort.
What I'm getting at is that if one has a bronze prop (as we do) with a zinc to protect it from galvanic corrosion then one's bronze prop is going to get stuff growing on it. Conversely, if one doesn't have a zinc or one that is way too small, one will experience galvanic corrosion and no stuff will grow on it. When I look at the value of the prop (ours is about $1500 Canadian) I wonder how long it would last without the zinc? If it would last 3 to 5 years...what does that mean to someone who's hauling out just to get the barnacles off the prop? In our case, 29Ton boat, a haulout isn't low cost.
Ours remains zinced and we have the beginnings of calcium deposits (white stuff) growing onto it....takes a scraper to get that stuff off while diving.
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09-21-2009, 06:31 PM
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#10
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Commander
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 144
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Perhaps try Coppercoat? You can get a liter for $129 and it would cover your shaft, your prop, and your dinghy. It's supposed to be wiped down every month or so (?) with a brush or rag, but if the prop is spinning it probably kicks the slime off anyhow. They claim it's good for 10+ years, but even if it only worked half of that it would still be a value. Plus, it can be buffed so it will create minimal drag / cavitation on the prop.
That's one of the ways I'm planning to test this product out before dropping the money to apply it to the entire boat.
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09-22-2009, 03:03 PM
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#11
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Ensign
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 3
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Brenda & David.
Regarding your pondering about, "...the value of the prop vs the value of the anti-fouling/scrubbing effort."
1) Your time must be worth more than mine. :-)
2) You'll need to factor in the reduced efficiency of your prop as it turns to Swiss cheese.
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09-22-2009, 04:11 PM
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#12
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Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2007
Home Port: Washington DC
Vessel Name: SV Mahdee
Posts: 3,236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie
2) You'll need to factor in the reduced efficiency of your prop as it turns to Swiss cheese.
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Well funny thing about the prop turning to swiss cheese. Don't know how long it would take but, ours would very likely do so without a proper zinc as the bronze would be eaten away because of the stainless steel prop shaft and the engine which it is connected to. The previous owner had just that thing happen to a prop when, in a marina, there was a massive current leak somehow at the shore power lines...which ate away the zincs and then started in on everything bronze--within two months his prop was gone, thru-hulls pink, bronze rudder stock pink, and so on. Oh, what a sad occurrence for him--and very costly too.
We mostly anchor or are on a mooring so that is even why I was thinking about this whole issue...you see...we know a fellow who keeps his boat on a mooring. The boat has a bronze prop shaft and bronze prop. The fellow, believe it or not, does NOT have a zinc on his prop--and the prop looks beautiful all the time--and he's had this combo together for going on 12 years now. I kid you not! He also doesn't have a zinc on the Volvo saltwater cooled engine its all attached to. I really don't get it, but...it works for him. I must say his boat has basically NO electrical system save what it takes to start the engine and keep running lights going. His risk is smaller than ours, but I still ponder how it is that he manages this set up without everything being ruined.
In our case, when we check w/reference cell w/o the zinc in place (hubby was messing around with the prop shaft zinc two weeks ago so we measured voltage potentials w/o it on the boat) we noted a current between the prop shaft (inside the boat) and the water (outside the boat) of 340 mV which is sufficient, actually perfect... to be eating away at the bronze propeller.
Always something. Our prop is getting a bit of whitish deposits on it which must be scrubbed at 1x/mo--they're not really going away so next haulout we'll have to latch onto a better system for keeping things away from the prop
P.S. we're not planning on any more haulouts in San Diego, but here a good deal on a haulout is not cheap. Here are some rates that are a better deal than most the other yards in San Diego: Link. Let's see, my boat is 54' on deck...look at that chart and do the numbers. Of course, we do keep the prop clean enough that we can't envision hauling out to scrape barnacles, but you never know...
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09-29-2009, 08:29 PM
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#13
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Ensign
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 7
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Coppercoat is not recommended for props. We are testing a new barrier coat with Coppercoat here in the states and will watch the tests for a year or so before we recommend it.
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10-02-2009, 08:42 AM
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#14
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 41
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For your interest, I have applied a coating of permanent marker ( Sharpie) to my prop and just got back into the water today. Will keep a regular check to see how it goes and report back.
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10-02-2009, 10:07 AM
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#15
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Retired Mod
Join Date: Mar 2007
Home Port: Durban
Posts: 2,984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan
For your interest, I have applied a coating of permanent marker ( Sharpie) to my prop and just got back into the water today. Will keep a regular check to see how it goes and report back.
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Please keep us posted.
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01-13-2010, 05:19 PM
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#16
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Ensign
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 39
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We did coppercoat on the entire hull, and having a lot of hull, we like to feel that we got good at application of it, but it would take someone way more skilled than us to get it on smooth enough that you were not drastically reducing propeller efficiency. I use 1200 wet paper on the prop when I go down to look at the bottom, so starting with a really good condition blade, when I hauled out I used McLube on blades 1 &3 and wax on 2&4 and the McLube lasted over 6 months after the wax had started to fail to keep growth off. I will try the sharpie next time we haul, vs the McLube and see if any improvement. I painted the prop shaft and shaft tube with coppercoat, and so far have had no barnacles or tubeworms grow on it, but have not been a whole year yet, so will see how it works out.
We also use a trash masher bag over the prop (I align the blades to neutral after I grease the prop to keep growth off the bearing hub so the blades will feather) and the addition that I have found helps the most is to fill the bag with fresh water with our cockpit shower hose (or dock hose) after the bag is on the prop and before I put the cable tie on. The prop, prop zinc and blades then look just like new when I take the bag off and away we go....
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01-13-2010, 07:25 PM
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#17
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Retired Mod
Join Date: Mar 2007
Home Port: Durban
Posts: 2,984
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: Most sections
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02-01-2010, 05:43 PM
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#18
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Rear Admiral
Join Date: Mar 2007
Home Port: Hamburg
Vessel Name: Aquaria
Posts: 281
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... any idea what could be done against the calcium deposits inside the mechanical structure of a folding prop (Flex - O - Fold, Denmark)?
The barnacles have no chance once you put the engine in gear - they get crushed. But due to the remaining calcium deposits it does not fold all the way any more after you turn the engine off...
Talked to the company producing the prop - they suggested to soak the whole prop in descaler for some time - it won't harm the metal.... No problem, if the boat is on the dry during the winter season. But that can't be the solution to take the whole prop and shaft home. Well I did it anyway, soaked the prop for a day until it was very shiny again (just like new on the outside!), but it did not result in a smooth folding and unfolding. So I disasambled the prop and was surprised about the remaining masses of calcium deposits that still remained in the inside. Finally I cleanded all parts mechanically, put everything back together and now it works fine!*
Does anyone knows a smarter way to clean a folding prop or to keep it clean? I hesitate to cover the 'Gear teeth' with any coating or grease that possibly resinifies and slows down the folding mechanism even more! Good idea with the plastic pose to cover the prop with - but the water quality (bigger harbour) does not invite to jump into the water more then necessary...*
Uwe
SY Aquaria
: Germany, Background, Cruising/Sailing the German Bight
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03-18-2010, 08:17 AM
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#19
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jan 2005
Home Port: No such thing
Vessel Name: Charisma
Posts: 85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edboat
Coppercoat is not recommended for props. We are testing a new barrier coat with Coppercoat here in the states and will watch the tests for a year or so before we recommend it.
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I realize it has just been 5 months and a bit but was wondering if there was any positive feedback?
Fair Winds
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Francis
S/Y Charisma
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04-16-2010, 11:03 PM
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#20
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 41
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Sorry to take so long to get back on this but the result of using a Sharpie permanent marker on my prop has proved to be favourable! It's been all of 6 months now since haulout, average use of boat, sitting in marina, at anchor, long motoring trips ( no wind) and good saiing days, so just general use.
Barnicles are all over the cutlass housing and prop locking nut but NOT on the blades where I applied 2 coats of marker, just a bit of slimeing etc is evident but definitely no barnicles!
Cheers, Alan
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